Intermediate Guide to Suits: Part XIII

Each week, I will present a post on the ins and outs of custom suits AND suits in general at an intermediate level. It is recommended that the beginner’s guide be read first.

Alterations – the bane of existence – Part I

I hope that I have stressed the importance of alterations so far in my guides. Unless you are one of those rare individuals who’s body shape matches the off the rack sizes perfectly, then you can ignore this post (I have met someone like this).

Off the rack suits are measured by chest size (avg: 38 to 46) and height (Short, Regular, Tall). Furthermore, you may have noticed that each brand fits differently – this is due to their unique “house cut”. They may make the armhole and waist tighter or looser depending on what their brand style represents. (Brioni makes theirs big, Boss makes theirs really tight – our house cut is closer to Boss, just a lot more accommodating!).

Although you may pick a chest size that is closest to your own size – it is not as crucial as a jacket’s shoulder fit. This is what you should look for because shoulder reconstruction is complicated and expensive and some alteration places won’t even touch it.

Look at your suits in your wardrobe and see which ones fit you in the shoulders (get your gf or wife to help criticize). If they all do then – congrats, you can keep them!

Next week, I will talk about the types of alterations that you may need on your suits and later I will recommend alteration’s places.

P.S. – this is more or less the same for women – fit in the shoulders first!

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